Begin North

Bus #31 climbs up from Jerusalem's Malcha shopping mall (incredibly the most visited site in the city after the wailing wall), to its western outskirts, through neighborhoods of agressive commie-blocks and sunstruck gravel plots. On board, Hassidic men are doing their best to avoid looking at loud teenaged girls in tank tops. I'd take this moment to vanish from this world for a while, but Leonard Cohen just came on the radio.