Sometimes the only promise in Amman is the sky above it.
Descend from it at your own risk.
into a surreal,
dense cityscpae, the kind that only the Middle east knows how to deliver.
Overwhelmed by it all, just keep descending, as my friends and I did, on our way to the Mika concert by the dead sea.
Another thing to do is to await the fall of night. Amman is by no means a nightlife Mecca, or rather, it has about as much nightlife as Mecca, but on a lucky night you may have some adventures. We had one such lucky night. It started off nicely in the company of the extraordinary Ali Maher, Jordan's patron of the arts,
Evolved nicely from there on,
At 2:00 AM we did kind of run out of Amman nightlife, and stood at the third circle, debating our next move (left to right: Hagar Shapira, Nadav Appel, Sarah Jolly, Yuval Zuker, Nimrod Kamer, Pantare and an annonymous cab driver).
It ended, of course, at Hashem's immortal Hummous joint downtown, where the food is even better than the sky over Amman.